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Preface to the 4th French edition Published in 1944 in Saigon, republished in 1948 and again in Paris in 1963, "The Monuments of the Angkor Group" by Maurice Glaize remains the most comprehensive of the guidebooks and the most easily accessible to a wide public, dedicated to one of the most fabled architectural ensembles in the world. In his preface to the first edition, Georges Cœdes (1886-1969), the unchallenged master of Khmer studies and the then director of the École Française d'Extrême-Orient, wrote: "Maurice Glaize's guide, more than a quarter of which is devoted to
fundamental ideas concerning the history of the country, its religions, the meaning and
evolution of the monuments, their architecture and their decoration, the sculpture, and
finally to the work of the Conservation d'Angkor, gives an initiation to Angkor that until
now has been lacking. The guide recommends itself on these qualities alone. By means of
taking apart and rebuilding the monuments during the process of anastylosis Mr. Glaize has
learnt to know their secrets and, like a professor of anatomy, reveals to his readers all
the details of their structure. But further, in daily contact with the ruins since 1936,
he has learnt to love them, and one can easily perceive the emotion of the artist as he
faces the corner of a gallery lit by the morning sun, or views the light playing on the
waters of an ancient pool at sunset...
In brief, this volume is a book that is of service not only as a
guide for touring the monuments, but also as a presentation of the results of the most
recent research to a wider public. With these diverse titles, it deserves the success
which I hope for it with all my heart... "
Founded on an exceptional understanding of the monuments and an
ability to popularise to a high level, this rightful success was soon gained - the work of
Mr. Glaize being no less valuable for students of research than for tourists, or for the
most demanding connoisseurs of art. With the exception of Georges Trouvé, whose
involvement was sadly too brief, nobody had a better understanding or 'feeling' for the
monuments of the Angkor region than Henri Marchal or Maurice Glaize. But if H. Marchal was
the first to make use of anastylosis towards the end of 1931 for the exemplary
reconstruction of Banteay Srei, it was M. Glaize who generalised its use for the
"Angkor Group" - notably in the "rebirth" of Banteay Samre, for the
sanctuary of Neak Pean, and the "resurrection" of the sanctuary of the
Bakong.
It would, however, be unsatisfactory to simply republish a work
written now some fifty years ago without some form of amendment. All manner of events have
in the mean time intervened that impose necessary revision - although, in terms of the
Author's thoughts, those responsible have made the request that any alteration should be
as discrete as possible. These factors derive as much from the unhappy events resulting
from ongoing political changes as from events directly affecting the monuments themselves.
On the one hand, there has been the abrupt and rapid decline, since 1945, in the state of
some of the better known temples, such as the Baphuon and Angkor Wat - symbolic of the
highest achievement of Khmer classicism. On the other, towards 1955, the availability of
modern techniques and materials enabled the improved efficiency of the Angkor Conservation
Office, which then expanded from a simple workshop to a research office with engineers and
technicians. Under the direction of Bernard Phillippe Groslier more ambitious programs
were devised, and large, urgent site-works, previously unthinkable, were able to be
undertaken. The brutal deterioration of the political situation in 1975 and the resulting
insecurity came to ruin these hopes and put an end to the activity that had previously run
uninterrupted since the founding of the Conservation Office in 1908. The resumption of
work, even with limited objectives, was to take a long time in coming.
These facts cannot be omitted from a Guide whose primary aim
is the reader's instruction. Likewise, progress in research has considerably reduced the
importance for a long time placed on the notion of the "god-king" and the
"royal linga", with more qualified interpretations being proposed by Jean
Filliozat and Georges Cœdes himself during the 'sixties. There has been a similar
evolution in terms of the symbolism of the monuments (in particular with respect to Phnom
Bakheng and the temples from the period of the Bayon) for which a recourse to texts has
allowed the release from mere hypothetical speculation. All of these amendments have been
handled unobtrusively, usually with simple notes. It is with the same concern for
"revision" that the original, but old, photographs have been substituted with a
choice of more recent illustrations. Jean BOISSELIER There is only one way to best view Angkor - without unnecessary
stress and with some benefit - and that is to allow at least a week, and to visit within
reason two or three temples per day maximum. If this period of time is insufficient to
penetrate to all the secrets of the very particular architecture and the dense
ornamentation - which require a certain adaptation in order to fully appreciate their
value - it is instead permitted to at least taste their charms, to assimilate the
rudiments of Khmer Art, and to leave with a desire to study them in more depth. A stay of short duration will, however, give a good idea of the
ensemble - on condition that one paces one's programme according to the small amount of
time at one's disposal, and has no pretension to 'see everything'. For this reason, we
propose several itinerary types to aid the task of the hurried tourist. A minimum of three
days would seem to us essential to make contact with the principal monuments of the group.
Angkor may be visited in all seasons. However the most favourable
period extends from November to March, during the first months of the dry season, when the
temperature is particularly clement. In contrast, April and May are hot and humid, and
then come the rains - through to September - which put one at risk of immobilisation for
several hours - though without always lasting an entire day. They are extremely rare in
the morning, and the sandy soil quickly dries. This is the time when the forest becomes
alive and verdant, when the reservoirs and moats refill, when the stones become covered in
creepers and lichens - and it is only important to no longer climb, except with extreme
caution, amongst the boulders and on the sandstone blocks, which the moss renders slippery. It is preferable, particularly in the hot season, to leave early in
the morning and to return before eleven o'clock, and not to revisit in the afternoon until
three or four o'clock - the light at the end of the day being generally more
favourable.
The majority of the monuments - and in particular Angkor Wat - lose much in being viewed
against the light. We would especially recommend the setting of the sun at Angkor Wat, where
sometimes the spectacle will include the flight of the bats in the fading
light, or from the top of Phnom Bakheng or Phnom Krom, or the terrace
of the Srah Srang - or else from the beach of the baray, where the bathing
is delightful. Finally, if you have the opportunity, do not miss, by the
light of the full moon, the second level courtyard of Angkor Wat at the
foot of the central tower, or the upper terrace of the Bayon. FOR ONE MORNING FOR ONE AFTERNOON
FOR ONE DAY
afternoon FOR TWO DAYS
first day morning afternoon second day morning Distance - 46 kilometres. afternoon FOR THREE DAYS
first day morning afternoon second day morning afternoon third day morning afternoon FOR FOUR DAYS
first day morning afternoon second day morning afternoon third day morning afternoon fourth day morning afternoon FOR FIVE DAYS
first day morning afternoon second day morning afternoon morning afternoon fourth day afternoon fifth day
morning afternoon FOR SIX DAYS AND MORE
Ad libitum, including the secondary temples and, perhaps, with an excursion to Beng Mealea (a day trip) |